Glossary of sewing terms & pattern markings

• Basting stitch: Long stitch done by hand or machine that temporarily holds fabric in place. Ends are not typically secured. These stitches are typically removed after sewing a final seam.
• Finished edge: An edge that is not raw (due to hemming or enclosing seam allowance).
• Gathering stitch: Long stitch with long thread ends left loose; the thread ends can be pulled to gather the fabric along the stitching line.
• Grade [seam allowance]: Trim each seam allowance to a different width, to prevent all seam allowances from ending at the same distance and creating a visible bump. Typically done on enclosed seams (such as yokes, waistbands, etc.) that have 3 or more layers of seam allowance.
• Notch: Line or triangle drawn on pattern pieces used to mark a specific length along the piece. Copy notches to fabric by cutting where the notch is, within the seam allowance. Typically used for matching up two pattern pieces together, or for marking where folds or pleats begin.
• Open seam: see "Press seam open".
• Press: Flatten and remove wrinkles by pressing with a hot iron.
• Press seam open: After sewing a seam, press one side's seam allowance to one side of the seam and the other seam allowance to the other side. Typically, the two pieces that were sewn together are first separated, so they are not on top of each other.
• Raw edge: Edge where fabric has been cut, and typically can fray.
• Right side: Side of fabric that should be visible on finished work. May also be used to mean the outside of one's work.
• Rise [of pants/trousers]: The distance running along center front through center back of pants/trousers.
• Seam allowance: This may refer to the distance between the cutting line and the seam line, or the fabric itself that is between the cutting line and seam line.
• Stay stitch: Line of stitching typically along diagonal or curved edge of pattern piece, done immediately after cutting pattern piece, to prevent stretching along the bias. This is less necessary for stiff and tightly woven fabrics.
• Stitch in the ditch: Stitching done directly on top of an existing seam line (the "ditch"), typically from the outside, in order to make the stitching less visible.
• Topstitch: Stitching done from right side / outer side, typically for reinforcing seams, hemming, or decoration.
• Understitch: Stitch through seam allowance and lining, typically used to keep lining flat and less visible near a seam.
• Wrong side: Side of fabric that should be less visible on finished work. May also be used to mean the inside of one's work.
• This page is incomplete. It will be updated in time for pattern testing.